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The Most Influential Pizzas in America

October 18, 2015, 2:31 pm
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Any pizza list is likely to generate some controversy, but it's good that pizza generates such passion.

The writers at First We Feast deviated from the "Best Pizza" type of analysis toward an attempt to list the most influential pizzerias in American pizza history. Some of these are just fabulous pizza, others are mass marketers who changed the way we eat pizza.
The "Rosa" at Pane Bianco

The analysis was assembled in mini-reviews from a pizza people panel that included pizza makers, pizza writers, pizza tour operators, and one guy who blogs about pizza in his spare time (me).

I got to write about Pizzeria Bianco. I visited Bianco before I began this blog, but the memory is distinct (amazing pizza, three-hour wait) and the influence of Chris Bianco is hard to overstate. Happily for Phoenix area folks, there are now several Bianco outlets, including the wonderful Pane Bianco.

Here is the link to learn about the pizza makers that shaped the current pizza landscape: 
http://firstwefeast.com/eat/the-most-influential-pizzerias-in-america/
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Review: Wolfgang Puck Express Pizza

October 24, 2015, 4:14 pm
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Heading home Indianapolis late one morning, I was intrigued by the Wolfgang Puck Express located right in my airport terminal. Of course, the cylindrical white-tiled open-flame oven caught my eye as well. I had found Indianapolis to be a town with some good pizza (Napolese and the local favorite Bazbeaux), but no great pizza. Why not take one more shot on my way out of town?

Wolfgang Puck - the man - created Spago, one of the most celebrated restaurants in Los Angeles. His success there made him a household name and served as a launching pad for a chain of Wolfgang Puck restaurants across America. Puck also was one of the very first to fashion a frozen pizza worth eating, no small feat. 

Due to the time of day, I was looking for brunch or breakfast. The breakfast pizza I ordered was made with scrambled eggs, bacon, cheese, and onions. This personal pie (generously sized, $11.99) came to my table with a lot of eye appeal.


The crust shared many of the characteristics of a Neapolitan pie, but it was more dense than most. IT didn't sport much of the leopard-spot charring found on most Neapolitans, and its texture was more chewy than crispy. It had the qualities of a very good breadstick, with good texture and great flavor. 
Under the hood

The toppings were in perfect harmony. The eggs had the right fluffy texture, and the bacon added the perfect smoky and salty flavor. I can't identify what kind of cheese was used, but it was ideal in both texture and flavor. The little bit of sauteed onion floating on top was the ideal finishing touch. This pizza was loaded with flavor and especially well balanced.
At the open-flame oven

The only improvement possible would be to cook it just a minute longer, to transform some of the crust's chewiness into crispiness. On the whole, this was a Grade A pizza experience. I was full after eating two of the four slices, but of course I happily polished off the entire pie. I'd be happy with this pizza at a regular restaurant, so it was particularly delightful to score such a great meal at an airport.

Not too many years ago, airport dining was a dreadful experience. I remember when it was a bonus to find a Sbarro in the terminal. But over the last decade, more and more airports are including some restaurants that are usually good and sometimes great. Who would have guessed that the best pizza in Indy would be found at a chain restaurant in the airport? Great stuff.

Wolfgang Puck Express Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato
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Review: It's Nutts - Trenton Style Tomato Pie

October 27, 2015, 3:21 am
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I enjoy all styles of pizza, but Trenton tomato pie (read my primer HERE) is my favorite. Among pizzerias that offer a real Trenton pie, DeLorenzo's is the Holy Grail. But even after they relocated from their smallish original Trenton location to a much larger space in suburban Robbinsville, getting a DeLorenzo's pie remains a challenge. It's never as bad as trying to get into DiFara or Pizzeria Bianco, but weekend waits are typically more than an hour.

Thus, it's great to see that even as so many of the old-line tomato pie makers have closed shop (Joes, Maruca's, Sam's Roma, Nate's), new ones are popping up in the burbs around Trenton. One of the best ones is La Villa in Morrisville, PA. After hearing a lot of positive reviews, I recently got to stop in at It's Nutts in Titusville, NJ.

For decades, the Nutt family ran an ice cream stand at this Delaware River location on Route 29 between Trenton and Lambertville. In 2005, they expanded into a full-service sit down restaurant. The interior retains the casual feel of a counter-service place. I stopped in for lunch on a weekday and the place was nearly full of very happy diners.

On site, I ordered the fried chicken platter ($7) for my lunch and chose a large tomato pie with sausage ($15.40) to go. The fried chicken was very good, but short of amazing. The sides were excellent, and the service was efficient. 

I took the pie home to re-heat for dinner. It was a large 17" round pie with a good distribution of genuine Italian sausage that had been applied uncooked before the bake.
From www.hiddentrenton.com

The crust was, in texture, a classic Trenton pie. Very thin, very crisp yet chewy, and almost brittle at the narrow cornicione. It seemed to have less oil and less salt than a La Villa or DeLorenzo's pie. It had a uniform dark golden color underneath, but no char spots. 

The cheese had a wonderfully distinct flavor, and it was right in line with the DeLorenzo character. I wonder if there is some cheddar in that blend? The sauce had a rich tomato flavor, but it was not chunky as often found on a tomato pie. Both the sauce and cheese adhered nicely to the crust, melding into one fabulous gestalt.

The sausage was also a standout. Even on a second reheat several days later, this pie was giving me a lot of Trenton tomato pie satisfaction. For my tastes, it could be better with more salt in the dough and more oil in or on the pie. Bottom line, wonderfully authentic Trenton tomato pie, modest prices, good service, no waiting. For certain, Nutt's is making destination pizza.
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Review: Tommy's Pizza, Bronx (Throggs Neck) NY

October 30, 2015, 4:38 am
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Update, October 2015:Tommy Lobue was honored with the Lifetime Achievement Award from the Throggs Neck Merchants Association.
http://www.throggsneckmerchants.com
, October 2015: Award presented to Tommy LoBue at the
Throgs Neck Merchant's Association Annual Dinner & Dance

Visiting a friend at lunchtime on a Wednesday in the Throgs Neck section of the Bronx, we headed out to Tosca (full review HERE), a lovely full-service Italian restaurant with a great bar, friendly staff, and a brick oven dating back to 1922. 
Large pie barely fits in the box! Click any pic to enlage

After lunch, my pal Ken returned to his nearby office, and I prepared to set out for my drive home to Pennsylvania.  Aware of my pizza passion, Ken suggested that we cross the street to Tommy's, a hole-in-the-wall old-school pizza shop. Ken endorsed the pie there and suggested that I buy one "cold" to take home and re-heat.

We entered around 2pm. Tommy was behind the counter, and about three locals sat at the counter (there is a small dining room in the rear, also. Ken announced my fondness for great pizza, and each patron volunteered a unanimous endorsement of Tommy's as "best pizza in the Bronx." Now, generally you can't put much stock in the locals' opinions, because most folks love the pizza place that is closest to home. But somehow these Throggs Neckers had more credence.
Tommy and Ken

Tommy had a handful of full-size plain pies cooked, just waiting to be re-heated and sold as slices. This made the perfect take-home pie, because it would not be steaming in the box. The huge pie was just $11, and we were shortly on our way. Tommy was quite congenial, but he won't likely ever see this review because he's "off the grid" regarding the Internet.
Some artistic flourishes in the rear dining room

When I got home, I noticed that this huge pie barely fit into the box. I re-heated four slices for our dinner. I added some pepperoni to two slices, and bit of fresh garlic to the other two. I made sure to leave some surface area mostly unadulterated so that I could sample a slice in a way as close as possible to the re-heat it would have received in Tommy's gas oven. As a final touch, I added fresh basil, post-bake.

This was deja vu pizza. Thin and crisp crust, yet not crackerlike - it had a distinctly delightful al dente airy interior. The sauce and cheese were perfectly complementary, and all the elements were in harmony. This pie was balanced in taste and texture. The deja vu part was once again finding an expertly rendered New York Slice, much as I had found at New Park Pizza (review HERE) in Howard Beach just a day earlier.
Under the hood

Thin and crisp, yet light and chewy


Here's a terrific quote from NYC Food Guy:

Tommy’s likely gets overlooked because of more hyped places in the neighborhood such as Tosca and Patricia’s, but there is always a heavy stream of locals popping in for a slice. Tommy’s is not a life-changing pizza experience, but it tastes the way pizza should, something that’s not as easy to find in New York as it once was.

I'm in complete agreement. My pal Ken knows Tommy well, as did the customers we saw that day. I would too if I lived nearby. Every neighborhood deserves a real pizza joint like this, with a guy like Tommy who eschews the mass-sourced supplies and who makes his own dough.  Bravo!


Tommy's Pizzeria on Urbanspoon
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Review: Trader Joe's Pizza Dough - Garlic & Herb

November 5, 2015, 3:34 am
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Trader Joe's is a great store for many reasons, but primarily for the gourmet offerings at discount pricing. 
Click on any image to enlarge

I've heard good reports about their ready-to-bake pizza dough, so I recently bought two packages (16 ounces each). I put the regular dough into my freezer, and selected the Garlic and Herb variety to make the first pizza.

The package advised to take the dough out of the refrigerator 20 minutes before use, but I let it sit all day at room temp. And, rather than bake at 425 per instructions, I baked it for about 8-9 minutes at 550 degrees on my Baking Steel.

On top, I added a ball of fresh mozzarella, one thinly sliced jalapeno pepper, and some Hormel pepperoni. For the sauce, I used a can of diced tomatoes (drained) mixed with thin slices of fresh garlic.
Pre-bake

The crust had a greenish tint from the garlic/herb flavoring, but otherwise the pie baked up to a beautifully puffy and browned appearance, with some nice char underneath. However, I was disappointed in both the flavor and texture.
Out of the oven

The crust lacked substance, in the same way as supermarket "Italian" bread. It was short on flavor, and it was too soft on the interior, without any al dente chew. It was not as good as the crust on the "Trader Giotto" frozen pies also available at Trader Joe's.


For price and convenience, this dough is a decent value. But after that first pizza, I was left feeling that if you are feeding kids or folks who are happy with chain pie, then Trader Joe dough is a good choice. Otherwise, if you are attempting to make a great pizza at home, make your own dough. 

Two weeks later, I took the second dough out of the freezer 24 hours before planning to use it. It spent one night in the fridge, then it sat at room temperature until time to make the pizza.
A slice of the breakfast pizza

This time, I decided to use this dough to make two smaller pies with very thin crusts. I followed the excellent recipe from Andris Lagsdin for Roman Pizza on the Baking Steel. After dividing the dough in half, I used a rolling pin to make amoeba-shaped pies about 12 inches across.

On the first pie, I attempted a breakfast style pizza. I added inexpensive shredded "Italian blend" cheese, slices of fully cooked sausage, and some chopped red onion. After pre-heating the baking steel to 550, I set my oven to broil and cooked the pie for 2 minutes.
Beautiful underside of the breakfast pizza

Then I rotated the pizza 180 degrees, added three eggs (too many, they almost ran off the pie), and baked 2 minutes longer at 550 (no longer broiling). I found out that 2 minutes did not cook the eggs enough, but 3 minutes left them slightly overcooked. Two and half, next time!


Trenton tomato pie
Other than the overcooked eggs, this pie was brilliant. The crust was perfect, thin and crisp outside with a wonderful al dente chew and some noteworthy hole structure at the cornicione despite the rolling pin treatment. Even with inexpensive cheese and sausage, the flavors were great with the egg after adding a touch of salt.

The second pie was more conventional, but I made it Trenton tomato pie style. The same cheese, onion, and sausage, but instead of egg I spooned on a mixture of diced Brandywine tomato (the last from my summer garden) with garlic, olive oil, dried basil, and oregano.

This pie had substantially more flavor than the first, but the volume of sausage and wet tomato mix made the tip of each slice droopy - but not soggy. This kind of result reinforces my appreciation for those pizza makers who always get the balance right - enough sauce and cheese and toppings to make the flavor sing, but not too much to overwhelm the structural integrity of the crust. 

I'm not sure if these pizzas were better than the garlic-herb dough pies because of the dough, or because of the technique, but I suspect it was the technique. 

I must confess that the pizza from the Trader Joe's dough is just as good as when I make the dough from scratch, even when I use imported Italian "00" flour. I'm so glad I bought two doughs, because my first effort was discouraging. This dough made a much better pie when rolled out very thinly.
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Review: Louisa's Pizza & Pasta - Crestwood (Chicago) IL

November 8, 2015, 4:25 am
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Growing up in New Jersey, I developed a natural affinity for pizza with a thin, crisp, and sturdy crust. Sometimes, a puffy thick-crusted Sicilian pie would be a nice variation. Years later, I had my first taste of Chicago-style deep dish, first at Armand's in Washington DC, then at Pizzeria Uno (or Due) in Chicago. I loved it, because hey, pizza!
Click on any image for full size resolution

I confess though, as years rolled by, I became an east-coast pizza snob and particularly scornful of Chicago deep-dish. That was likely due to the generally insipid rendering of deep-dish pie by Pizzeria Uno, which had grown into a national chain. And in hindsight, that would be like sampling Pizza Hut and declaring that NY pizza is second-rate. The big chains cannot fairly represent any one style of pizza, even as the current version of Uno deep-dish is really not bad (see THIS review).


I loved Jon Stewart's rant about Chicago deep-dish, in which he tabbed it "tomato soup in a bread bowl." I did get a chance to sample a slice of Giordano's pizza that a family member brought back from Chicago, and it was wretched. My anti-deep-dish bias was confirmed.
A slice at Louisa's

With an occasional need to travel to central Illinois, I've found myself coming in to Midway and renting a car to drive south. In Bloomington, I had good thin-crust pie from Monical's and decent stuff from Rosati's (both local chains). I had spectacular party-cut bar pie at Lucca Grill, too. Closer to Midway, I had best-of-class bar pie at Vito & Nick's. On my latest pass through the South end of Chicago, I felt it was time to once again try deep-dish.

I've always trusted the writers at Seriouseats.com, and I found Daniel Zeman's review of Louisa's Pizza & Pasta in Crestwood, 10 miles south of Midway Airport. His endorsement was reason enough to make that slight detour en route from Normal to Midway.
Small deep-dish from Louisa's

Due to time restraints, I called ahead to get a small deep-dish with sausage for takeout. I was advised that it would take 40 minutes, so this was not a pre-made deep-dish; a good sign. Loiusa's is housed in an unremarkable modern building along the unremarkable commercial strip of Route 50 in Crestwood. You know you are close to Chicago, because half of the restaurants are hot dog joints. Wish I had time and belly space to have tried one of those, too!
Inside Louisa's Pizza and Pasta, Crestwood IL

Inside, Louisa's looked cozy and comfortable - the kind of place you'd love to have in your neighborhood. The staff was especially friendly, and made sure that my take-out pizza was cut when I asked for a plastic knife and fork. I was planning to eat this small pie ($15.15) at the airport, but out of hunger and a desire to sample the pie fresh from the oven, I tackled one slice right there in the front seat of my rental car. 

The vibrant red sauce was the most immediate sensation. In its simplicity and freshness and brilliant color, this crushed tomato sauce was one the best I've experienced on any pizza, thin or thick. Zemans described it as "neither tangy nor sweet... simply chunks of juicy tomatoes seasoned with herbs that are grown in back of the restaurant." I think I detected an onion flavor to the sauce too. Scrumptious.

The crust was buttery, dense throughout but almost flaky on the cornicione. It was crisp on the bottom but not crunchy, with no soggy spots. Lots of grease soaked out of this crust into the cardboard container.

On a thin pizza, you can sometimes compare the crust to Italian bread, or breadsticks, or even crackers. This crust had an almost biscuit-like quality. Beyond its texture, it had its own distinct flavor. Zemans noted that he'd eat this crust without any toppings. Me too. 
Some biscuit-like qualities to the crust

The cheese? There was a generous layer under the sauce which added gravitas and a nice chewiness, but its flavor got lost. In my ideal pizza world, you'd find a way to get the cheese on top for some oven browning on a deep-dish pie.

Zemans felt that there was not enough cheese or sauce on this pie, but I found all the ingredients to be in about ideal proportion.  This was a huge belly bomb, but somehow it felt balanced.

The sausage was excellent, but not quite the garlic and fennel magic you'd get on a Trenton tomato pie. Like the cheese, I'd have liked it better with some oven browning, but it added great texture and flavor even as it was buried under the sauce.

About 90 minutes after I picked up this pizza, I had returned the rental car, taken the shuttle bus to Midway, passed through security, and found a few moments near my gate to address the three remaining slices, which were room temperature by this time.
Philly-style square slice at L&B Spumoni Gardens in Brooklyn

Much like a Philadelphia tomato pie - a distant thick-crust cousin - this stuff was terrific at room temperature. The crust was still crisp and there was no sogginess in any section. Perhaps that buried layer of cheese prevents the sauce from seeping into the crust?

That slice was so good that I quickly finished the final two. I don't want to think about the calories, but this pizza was a delightful experience. I'm done arguing over NY vs. Chicago pizza; they are just different animals. This thick pie had little in common with even a Detroit-style pie. No matter how you label it, it's authentically delicious. This is superb deep dish at Louisa's, and easily one of my top 2015 pizza experiences.


Here's some excellent detail from Chicago's Steve Dolinsky regarding Louisa's: "a sturdy, slightly rich, buttery crust, the result of Ceresota unbleached flour, and a resting period of at least a day. Along the bottom, Wisconsin part-skim mozzarella, extra large hunks of cooked Anichini sausage they’ve been getting for 34 years, and a bright-and-chunky tomato sauce on the top, the product of California vine-ripened tomatoes (Saporito brand)."



  Louisa's Pizza & Pasta Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato
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Review: Kate & Al's Pizza Pies - Columbus Farmers Market Pizza, Part One

November 15, 2015, 2:40 pm
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In the parts of New Jersey and Pennsylvania near Philadelphia, there remain some large shopping complexes that are - more or less - the precursor to malls. They are an old-fashioned concept, combining farmers' market, flea market, and independent shops selling cheap goods or repair services. One of the biggest was the Pennsauken Mart, which closed several years ago.
A slice at Kate and Al's. Click any pic to enlarge.

One of the best remaining is Roots Country Market in Lancaster County, which is also home to the fantastic Norma's Pizza. Delaware County is home to Booth's Corner Farmer's Market, which has a wonderful counterspace spot called Cajun Kate's. All of these places feature long, narrow buildings typically built from cinder block. You'll find an antique dealer next to an Amish bakery next to a vacuum repair shop next to a fried chicken stand next to a store full of date-expired foods.
From www.ColumbusFarmersMarket.com


The Produce Building

One of the biggest is Columbus Farmer's Market, just a little bit south of Trenton, but clearly in a part of South Jersey that remains rural. I last visited there in the 1970s, but I have a distinct memory of enjoying a rectangular slice of pizza there. I had been hearing a lot of good things about Kate and Al's, so I found a sunny Saturday in November to pay a visit.

Scenes inside the Columbus Market

The indoor stores are arranged in a large U shape. Kate and Al's Pizza Pies anchors the Southern end, and Pete's Pizza is the bookend to the North. Both offer similar thick square slices; we'll talk about Pete's in Part Two. Also at this end, I saw a huge line of people at Stoltzfus BBQ.
Queueing up for Stoltzfus BBQ

Happily, when I got to Kate and Al's, I did not face any line; I understand they do get very busy on Sundays. They sell whole pies and half pies with a variety of toppings, but only the plain cheese pie can be ordered by the slice. I got two of these for $2.25 each, and they came on two undersized paper plates.

Like most rectangular pies, the slices here are baked in pans. The amount of sauce was double or triple you'd find on a Sicilian pizza or a Detroit-style pie. The cheese, however, was less than half of the typical pizza amount. Structurally, then, this pie had something in common with a Philly style tomato pie, except that it is served hot and has a modest amount of mozzarella. The closest comparison I can make is the square pie at L&B Spumoni Gardens in Brooklyn.
Two slices

The crust, a little pale on the bottom, nonetheless had a nice crispness to it and was suprisingly light in the body. Despite that, it held up nicely under the sea of sauce. I can't remember a slice of pizza that had more sauce than this. It was a huge positive, though, because the sauce was bursting with fresh tomato flavor. It was messy to eat, but delightful.  There was just enough cheese to keep it interesting.

I was probably the only patron there who doesn't eat this stuff regularly. Just hanging around for 10 minutes, I heard a lot of happy anticipation from others placing orders. This pie defies categorization, but it was a delightful throwback. It can't match the balance of L&B square pie, or the artistry of the Detroit pies from Norma, but I loved it. 


One web reviewer reports that this style of pizza has been served at Columbus Market for more than fifity years. Apparently Pete's Pizza preceded - and led to - Kate and Al's:

Pete came from Hungary and wanted to start a business. A pizza restaurant seemed the only thing he could afford, but he did not know how to make pizza. So, he just started experimenting and kept notes on everything he did. He said, “The secret to great pie is to experiment, keep notes and develop a feel for the dough and the sauce. A recipe only gets you so far. To make outstanding pizza you need passion.”  Pete was a perfectionist and a very friendly guy. He started selling pizzas at Columbus Market in the 1950s and later sold the business to a relative who re-named it Kate and Al’s. Pete taught several customers that were active in their churches how to make pizza so they would have something good for the teens. In the 1960s Pete opened up again at the other end of the market.

Kate and Al's Pizza Pies is a tradition, and a grand one. When you sell your pies for fifty years, you are doing something right. Absolutely worth the trip to Columbus, which is really a trip back in time.

Kate & Al's Pizza Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato
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Review: Pete's Pizza - Columbus Farmers Market Pizza, Part Two

November 22, 2015, 4:02 am
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The Columbus Farmer's Market, just a little bit south of Trenton, is a dinosaur; an old style hybrid of junk shops, flea market, and farm market. On a sunny Saturday in November, I targeted Kate & Al's Pizza, located within the market. You can learn more about the market and see my review of Kate & Al's HERE.

A slice at Kate and Al's. Click any pic to enlarge.

A slice at Pete's Pizza

The indoor stores are arranged in a large U shape. Kate & Al's Pizza Pies anchors the Southern end. I happened to enter at the North side and saw Pete's Pizza, buzzing with customers. I went first to Kate & Al's, then returned to Pete's to sample a slice there.


Pete's, like Kate & Al's, sells rectangular pizza, baked in pan, whole or by the slice. In fact, both places seem to have a single origin. One web reviewer reports that this style of pizza has been served at Columbus Market for more than fifty years. Apparently Pete's Pizza preceded - and led to - Kate & Al's:
Pete came from Hungary and wanted to start a business. A pizza restaurant seemed the only thing he could afford, but he did not know how to make pizza. So, he just started experimenting and kept notes on everything he did. He said, “The secret to great pie is to experiment, keep notes and develop a feel for the dough and the sauce. A recipe only gets you so far. To make outstanding pizza you need passion.”   
Pete was a perfectionist and a very friendly guy. He started selling pizzas at Columbus Market in the 1950s and later sold the business to a relative who re-named it Kate & Al’s. Pete taught several customers that were active in their churches how to make pizza so they would have something good for the teens. In the 1960s Pete opened up again at the other end of the market.

And I found that the pizza in both places was quite similar, with a few noteworthy differences. On both, the amount of sauce was double or triple you'd find on a Sicilian pizza or a Detroit-style pie. The cheese, however, was less than half of the typical pizza amount. 

The slices at Kate & Al's featured modest amounts of mozzarella. I think there was some mozz on the slice at Pete's, but what stood out was a heavy cover of grated Parmesan (or similar) aged Italian cheese.

Pete's Pizza
The crust at Kate & Al's was a little pale on the bottom, but it had a nice crispness to it and was surprisingly light in the body. The crust at Pete's was darker, crunchier, and sturdier. Both had excellent flavor. Of the two, Pete's was the better crust, but not by a big margin.
Underside of a slice at Pete's

At Kate & Al's, the deep sea of sauce was the star. Vibrantly red, with fresh tomato flavor to match. Like the wonderful deep-dish pie at Louisa's just south of Chicago, this sauce was delightful. The sauce at Pete's was both sweeter and saltier. The salty taste may have come from the heavy dusting of aged cheese. It was terrific, but I preferred the sauce at Kate & Al's.

It's easy to understand why these places are so popular, because this is good old-style pizza that has changed very little over 50 years. Even though Pete's has a better crust, I give a slight nod to the slices at Kate & Al's, due to its lively red sauce. I can't imagine anyone who would enjoy one and not the other.
The busy U-shaped counter at Pete's

The Columbus Market is a step back in time, mostly in a good way, and the pies there are destination pizza - worth the trip. Try both Pete's Pizza and Kate & Al's when you visit.




Pete's Pizza Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato
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Refiew: Capofitto - Philadelphia PA

November 26, 2015, 5:26 am
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For a long time, Philadelphia had only one notable pizza place - the legendary Tacconelli's in the Port Richmond section. Philly was all about the cheesesteak and the pretzels.
Click on any image for full size resolution

Fast forward to 2015, and Philly is one of the best pizza towns in America. The renaissance may have started when Stephen Starr opened Stella in Head House Square, bringing an authentic Neapolitan to town. Another pioneer was Marc Vetri, who offered even better Neapolitans at Osteria and later opened Pizzeria Vetri. Zavinoand Nomad also offer up world-class Neapolitan pies.

But unlike most cities where Neapolitan pies are popping up all over, Philly has gained some traditional American pies (thin, crisp, sturdy crust) at places like Beddia, Pizza Brain, SLiCE, and Rustica. Philly is rich in great pizza.

Is there room for one more?Stephanie & John Reitano are known in Philly for Capogiro and its excellent gelato. Their newest venture Capofitto offers that same gelato. It is also a full-service Italian restaurant featuring a daily pasta, a fascinating assortment of appetizers, a few calzones, and many 12" pizzas, priced from $12 - $19. Despite the glut of Neapolitan pizzas in town, food criticCraig Laban awarded two bells to Capofitto, and that put it on my radar.

I arrived on a Wednesday as the 11:30 lunch service was beginning. I ordered the Calabrese pizza, which features Mozzarella di Bufala, Piennolo tomatoes (from Vesuvius), N’duja salame, pecorino Romano, Sicilian extra virgin olive oil, and fresh basil. 
In the rear dining room

My server asked if I wanted the pie cut (Medigan style) or not (Neapolitan style). I was advised that the traditional way to eat this wet-center pie is with knife and fork. I probably should have done so, but I asked for mine to be cut.
Perfect char underneath

Neapolitan pies cook rapidly, and mine arrived swiftly. It was cut into four generous slices, and it had immense eye appeal. The crust was about ideal for a Neapolitan. The center was thin and delicate, and yes, wet. Wet, but not soggy. I can't say the moisture enhanced the first bites of each slice, but it didn't ruin it. And for me, this was the first time I felt the wet center was perhaps right and proper.

The cornicione was big, puffy but dense, and nicely chewy. Underneath, the crust sported just enough spotting to give it a touch of crispness and a boatload of character.

The excellent tomatoes were crushed but seemed almost whole. The N’duja salame was small bits of spicy and savory sausage. Each bite of this pie delivered a perfectly balanced flavor burst and ideal texture. The cheese was so white that it looked like egg whites while adding the right note of piquancy. 

The olive oil was a finishing touch that added yet more flavor and some welcome moisture beyond the pie center. I also had some nice hot pepper seasoning that I used judiciously.

This was a nearly perfect rendition of a Neapolitan pizza. I began wondering, is it the best in the region? It certainly takes a back seat to none. The owners are serious about the dough; this philosophy is shared on their website: 
There is a “Pizza Evolution” happening in Naples. A handful of pizzaioli are taking this art to another level. The dough is paramount. A highly hydrated dough with a long fermentation and careful handling results in a light, airy, tender crust. Everything on a pizza should enhance and exalt the dough. This is the pizza that is making its way to the tables of the Napoletani. This is what we are striving for.
The wood-fired oven, where pies cook in 90n seconds
This is world-class pizza. I liked the setting, and service was superb. I recommend visiting in a large group, to be able to sample many pies and some of the appetizers that I had to pass up. Capofitto is destination pie, and I wish I had time and belly space for the gelato - but I will surely be back.



Capofitto Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato
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Review: Gino's East Frozen Deep Dish Pizza

December 5, 2015, 5:46 am
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After resisting the lure of Chicago-style deep dish pizza for many years, I had a change of heart after eating deep dish from Louisa's, 10 miles south of Chicago's Midway Airport in Crestwood (full review HERE). For that reason, I was intrigued when I saw a frozen deep dish pie at my local ALDI supermarket.

The $5.99 offering was a two-pound "handmade" deep dish pizza with sausage and uncured pepperoni by Gino's East. Despite the obscene caloric load (2100 calories for an 8" pie), it was too compelling to pass up.

Gino's East opened its flagship Chicago location in 1966. There are now 11 Chicago area locations, one in Wisconsin, and 6 in Texas. (Texas is not the first place that comes to mind when talking about pizza, but Texas is also home to several locations of Brooklyn's legendary Grimaldi's, and also a brand new home to an outpost of Philly's wonderful Pizzeria Vetri.)

This frozen pie's instructions indicate 38-50 minutes baking time at 400 degrees. After baking, this pizza looked a lot more like "real pizza" than most thin-crust pizzas do. The tomato sauce was a nice deep red, and the crust did not look much different than that wonderful pie I had at Louisa's.

The first bite revealed that the crust had that nice buttery flavor - like a dense biscuit - with good outer crispiness and a pleasant inner chewiness. It was a good sturdy container for the sauce, cheese, and meats. No soggy spots anywhere.

The sauce was the standout feature. Deep, thick, with a bright taste. I can't recall any frozen pizza where the sauce was this good. 

Like every deep dish pie, the cheese was buried and its character was hard to perceive. The cheese serves more as a moisture barrier to prevent the sauce from soaking into the crust.

The meats were present in surprising abundance. Nice chunks of genuine sausage were backed up with some uncured slices of pepperoni. Neither had an amazing flavor, but it was surprising to see that the actual pie had more visible meat than the picture on the package.

The entire pie was nicely balanced. The crust may be a little thicker than ideal, but that probably helps preserve the integrity of the pizza for freezing, travel, and re-heating. 
From http://www.ginoseast.com

An ordinary person would want at least half of this pizza as a meal, so it's pretty indulgent at over 1000 calories. It may not be a bargain in terms of caloric load, but it's hard to imagine a tastier frozen pizza for just $5.99. If you enjoy deep-dish, this Gino's East frozen version is an easy winner.

Gino's East Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato
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Review: MOD Pizza

December 12, 2015, 3:51 am
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I have good news and bad news regarding your pizza future.

The good news is that you will get an ever-expanding range of pizza shop options, offering good to great pies. You should have to depend much less on pedestrian pizza from the (current) big chains and the independent locals who use low grade ingredients in order to compete on price with the chains.
Click on any image for full-size

The bad news is that the pizza renaissance, which has given birth to wonderful Neapolitan and other artisan pizzerias all across America, may have crested.

In the first golden age of American pizza, from the 1950s into the 1970s, Italian immigrants and following generations made great, simple, cheap pies from scratch. That era ended when the big chains began to push out the mom and pop pizza joints, or forced them to switch to mass-sourced low quality ingredients. Americans ate a lot of bad pizza from 1975 through 2005.
Open flame oven behind the pizza assembly line

The current pizza renaissance has seen a surge in new pizza places offering all kinds of wonderful hand-crafted pies using top-end ingredients. Most of these pies are Neapolitan style. It was, I suppose, only a matter of time until some companies began to attempt chain-pie production of Neapolitan style pizza.

It's already under way. Wolfgang Puck Express pizza is very good, and I got it at an airport! In my Pennsylvania hometown, the new RapiDough Pizza seems to be constructed in a way that will facilitate expansion to other stores. Philadelphia's amazing Pizzeria Vetri was recently sold to Urban Outfitters and is opening a branch in Austin, TX.
The "Kasey" at MOD Pizza

In the near term, this is good news. Good-to-great pizza can now be found easily by more people. But just as Pizza Hut and Papa John's brought mediocre pie to the masses, it is likely just a matter of time until the quality begans to slide, as each franchise gets a bit further removed from the founder's inspiration and they all begin to compete on price.

All this brings us to MOD Pizza. MOD opened in Seattle in 2008, and already there are almost 90 locations. For this review, I visited MOD Pizza in Wayne PA, in the Gateway Shopping Center.
Good char underneath

MOD has been described as the "Chipotle of pizza." You get your 12" personal pie any way you want it, and the price is always $7.87. They have a menu board with several suggested pies, or you can custom tailor your own pie from a large selection of sauces, cheeses, meats, and vegetable toppings. Friendly staff build your pie assembly-line style, and then the pies cook in a gas-fired open flame oven at 800 degrees for 3 minutes each.
Nice fountain beverage options

As a pizza purist, I usually get a simple red pie with one meat topping, but here I opted for the "Kasey" which featured gorgonzola, bacon, roasted brussel sprouts, red onion, and a balsamic glaze (no red sauce). For another $1.97, I got a fountain drink with some fun lemonade, tea, and soda choices and no apparent limit on refills.
Cornicione close-up

I watched my pie being assembled, and I was a bit dismayed to see that they are prepared and cooked on a circular screen pan.

The pie was ready soon. There is no table service, but plenty of seating in a hip attractive space, which was plenty busy at a Tuesday lunch time. MOD is a big space for a pizza place.

The pie had great eye appeal, the toppings were evenly distributed, and the bacon was generously applied. Just as it had appeared pre-bake, the crust was very thin, with a little puffiness at the cornicione.

The crust was crisp and rigid, but without a lot of dinstinctive flavor. I think it would be improved (but made less healthy) with some olive oil and salt. Bonus points that there were no wet or soggy areas.
Ordering at the counter

Most of the toppings were good, not great. They played together well, and the bacon was the highlight. The Brussels sprouts were more boiled than roasted, and did not spend enough time in the oven to acquire a char.

The pie had the look of a Neapolitan, but not the texture or flavor. Bottom line, it was the kind of downgrade you get when you train kids all across America to make a pizza in 3 minutes. Without question, it's better than 90% of the mom and pop shops making floppy pizza of no distinction, but well short of the real thing. And a little bit short of the very good Neapolitan pie at Wolfgang Puck Express.
Ordering sheet doubles as your pizza placemat

Still, this is very good fast food. I enjoyed the pizza and the ambiance, and I can recommend MOD as a good pizza stop. But again, the Chipotle analogy is apt. It's a tasty imitation of the authentic product. And it has the capacity to displace the pizza shops that are making the real thing and charging appropriately for it.

It's great for foodies that the pizza renaissance is cresting at the same time as the craft beer wave. Enjoy them now, because the chains are coming. 



MOD Pizza Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato
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Review: NY Pizza Suprema, Manhattan

December 19, 2015, 5:04 am
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In my experience, Manhattan is a place of dining extremes. I've had some of my best meals there, and some of the most dreary. Some astounding bargains, and some terrible ripoffs (especially in the theatre district). 
"Upside down" Sicilian at NY Pizza Supremo

On a recent trip to the city, my Amtrak train took me to Penn Station. One again, the food writers at SeriousEats were my guide to the region, and they recommended NY Pizza Suprema, adjacent to Penn Station on 8th Avenue at 31st Street.

More than 50 years ago, NY Pizza Suprema was established by Italian immigrant Salvatore Riggio in 1964, and he sold only plain slices until 1988. Even today, his son Joe says "If you are from out of town, please try the real New York slice ... plain cheese. Good pizza doesn't need to be disguised."
Fast moving counter men, bank of ovens behind them

I arrived at lunchtime, and a line was formed at the doorway where customers could get a look at the several round and square pie options (about $3.50 per slice) before ordering. 
NY style, with sausage

I chose a triangular sausage slice from the NY style pie, and a square "upside down" slice (sauce on top of the cheese) from the thick-crusted pan baked Sicilian style pie. With a medium fountain drink, my tab came to $8.50.

Both slices went into one of their conventional gas deck ovens for a quick reheat, and then were served on paper plates. Despite the crowds, the line moved fast and I also found a table inside.
From the back seating area, looking toward the front counter

The conventional NY slice had a very thin crust, which was crisp yet floppy at the narrow end, due to a heavy load of cheese, sauce, and sausage. This very good slice had well-balanced flavors, but no "wow" elements. 
Nice char underneath on the NY slice

The sausage was tasty, crisped, and generously applied, but it had been pre-cooked and then sliced thinly. Too much to ask, I suppose, for chunks of raw sausage to be applied pre-bake. The crust was better than average, but still a tad generic without a distinct flavor of its own. Could use a bit of salt and olive oil. The cheese was standard grade, too. The slightly sweet chunky sauce was the best feature of this B+ slice. 
The upside-down slice delivered on its beautiful promise 

The "upside-down" Sicilian slice featured conventional mozzarella under the thick layer of sauce, and grated Parmesan on top. The fresh basil was a nice touch, but it would have been better applied post-bake.

The crust was thick and puffy, yet light and delicate with a beautiful bottom crunch. Wonderful stuff. But the sauce was even better! It seemed less chunky and less sweet than the sauce on the NY slice, but it was bursting with terrific tomato flavor. The ingredients were all in good balance, and this made for a top-notch Sicilian square experience. 

This slice was better than the widely celebrated square slice at L&B Spumoni Gardens in Brooklyn. This has been a great year for thick square pizza baked in a pan, with NY Pizza Suprema joining Binge House, Via 313, and still-champion Norma's Pizza as pie destinations worth the trip. The ethereal crust and vibrant sauce were so good that this pie would shine even if you left off the cheese.
Perfect browning underneath

I finished my slices around 12:45pm on a warm Tuesday, and by that time the line stretched out the door onto the street. Notably, these were not tourists or Penn Station travelers - these folks looked and acted like they worked nearby. The square pie is a 9.5 slice, and the triangle slice a solid 8. Don't miss it if you're in the area.



NY Pizza Suprema Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato
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Review: Don Antonio, Manhattan

December 24, 2015, 3:48 am
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New York City - all five boroughs - is filled with wonderful pizza joints. In Manhattan, however, many of the best are clustered in Greenwich Village at the southern tip of the island. However, during a recent stay in midtown, I had a chance to visit Don Antonio by Starita, a Neapolitan pizza restaurant with a lofty reputation.
"Pizza Pianeta" at Don Antonio. Click any image to enlarge

From the Don Antonio website:
World-renowned Neapolitan pizza chefs, Roberto Caporuscio of the wildly popular Kesté Pizza & Vino in New York City, and his maestro, Antonio Starita, third generation owner of one Naples’ oldest and most revered pizzerias, Pizzeria Starita a Materdei, have joined forces to bring authentic Neapolitan pizza to Midtown Manhattan at Don Antonio by Starita.

I have not been to Kesté, but it's been on my pizza radar for a long time. Importantly, the best Neapolitan pie I've ever had came from Scuola Vecchia (Delray Beach, FL), whose owners were trained under Roberto Caporuscio.

On this Tuesday night, Don Antonio was a warm and cozy place. Narrow and deep, like so many city restaurants, it was filled with happy diners and bar patrons. 
The Neapolitan pie

I had one drink at the bar while waiting for my friend to join me. It's worth noting that my $12 glass of Calcinaio la Calonica Sangiovese was one the worst wines in my memory. This wine doesn't belong on any restaurant's wine list. We were seated at a table in the rear dining area of a pretty big interior space.

The menu is extensive, offering a variety of appetizers and over 60 kinds of pizza. We decided to share two of the personal-sized pies. One was a traditional Neapolitan, topped with prosciutto. 


View from the back dining area
For the other, I wanted a Montanara-style, featuring a fried pizza dough topped with sauce and cheese. I'd had one a few years ago at Forcella and loved it. Thinking Montanara, we ordered a Pizza Fritte, which turned out to be more like a calzone: fried dough, with cheese and other stuffing ingredients.

Among the varieties of Pizza Fritte, we chose the Pizza Pianeta, filled with fresh ricotta, anchovies, raisins, escarole, pine nuts, and then topped with more ricotta, grape tomatoes, and fresh basil.
Pizza Fritte

This rectangular offering came to us with a few surprises - first, that it was more calzone than pizza (my mistake in not reading the menu carefully). Second, it had no raisins, pine nuts, or anchovies. The waiter explained that the version we ordered hadn't proven popular, and so we got this streamlined version.

That's inexcusable. Of course it's fine for a restaurant to tune the menu, but hard to imagine they'd serve you a dish so different than the one you ordered.
Margherita, after slicing

Nonetheless, this calzone was excellent. The dough had a beautiful golden color from the fryer, but it was not greasy at all. Inside, it had wonderful texture and flavor, and it's hard to fault the nice simplicity of fresh ricotta dotted with green escarole, fresh basil, and red grape tomatoes. Even as we mourned the loss of the more-authentically Italian combo with pine nuts, raisins, and anchovies, we loved this calzone.

Next came our traditional Neapolitan pie. It was big for a personal-sized pizza, perhaps 13" in diameter. It was not sliced, so we cut it into four big slices for sharing.
Underside of Margherita crust. Crispy and chewy

It featured the puffy leopard-spotted cornicione you'd expect, and the rest of the crust was thin, light, and delicate. Importantly, it was not wet or soggy anywhere. Much to love and little to criticize about the crust, even as it did not quite rise to the level of some other standout Neapolitans, such as the one at Capofitto in Philadelphia.

The sauce and cheese were submerged under a generous layer of excellent prosciutto, shaved cheese, and fresh arugula - all of which were added post-bake. Overall, this pie was very nicely balanced in texture, flavor, and even color. A standout pie, worth the $19 price tag.

Toward the end of the meal, our waiter brought us a bowl of angioletti - finger-sized cylinders of fried dough, topped with a drizzle of chocolate sauce. It seemed to be the same excellent dough used in the pizza and calzone, and the sauce was addictive. I'm guessing the complimentary dessert was offered to make up for bringing us a pizza fritte different than we had ordered. A nice gesture and a great dessert.
With our great friend Ken

With a few drinks, our meal tab exceeded $100. That's a lot of money for pizza for two, but not out of line for an upscale spot in midtown Manhattan. Don Antonio by Starita is excellent Neapolitan pizza. In the current explosive growth of Neapolitan pizzerias, it doesn't stand out from the others as much as you might expect, given its heritage. Nonetheless, this is destination pie; one of the best meals you can find near the theatre district.


Don Antonio By Starita Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato
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The 15 Breakout Pizzas of 2015

December 27, 2015, 4:25 am
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As the pizza renaissance rolls on, I find myself with the happy problem of too many great new pizza experiences to contain in a list of just fifteen. This year's top pizza joints offered pie in all styles - Neapolitan (all the rage), old-school thin crust, Detroit style, NY style, and even a Chicago deep dish.
Hybrid pie at Patsy's in New Rochelle, NY
Luigi's Coal Oven Pizza, Fort Lauderdale, FL

Here are some great pies that didn't crack the top fifteen, but which deserve your attention and calories:
It's Nutts Restaurant Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato


Don Antonio By Starita Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Luigi's Coal Oven Pizza Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato


MOD Pizza Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato


Patsy's Pizzeria Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato


Dough Pizzeria Napoletana Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato


Dough Pizzeria Napoletana, San Antonio TX

Once again, a shout out to Adam Kuban for his thought-leader's annual take on "Eight Pizzas That Haunt My Dreams." That concept continues to serve as inspiration for this list. 

And now, the countdown; click on any pizzeria for the full review and more pictures.

15. Wolfgang Puck Express, Indianapolis, IN. The lower end of this list is populated with some chains and spin-offs, which is just more evidence of how far the Pizza Renaissance is spreading (and how it may be cresting). After eating the B+ pizza at Bazbeaux, considered the best in Indianapolis, I stumbled upon much better pie at the airport as I was heading out of town. The open-flame dome oven caught my eye, and I'm glad I took the chance. Yes, it is a chain, yes, I was at the airport, but the Neapolitan breakfast pizza was wonderful.
Breakfast Neapolitan at Wolfgang Puck Express, Indianapolis Airport

Wolfgang Puck Express Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato


14. Grimaldi's, San Antonio, TX. I've been to the original in Brooklyn, and was curious to see how good the chain version could be. Turns out, it is great pizza. It won't make you forget any of the iconic East Coast pizzerias, but this is far better than you'd expect in the land of BBQ. It's a revelation that folks as far away as Texas can experience a pretty good rendition of a great NY pie.
Grimaldi's, San Antonio

Grimaldi's Pizzeria Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato


13. Seventh Hill Pizza, Washington DC. Our nation's Capitol is rich in good pie joints - 2Amys, Comet Ping Pong, Wiseguy NY Pizza, Pupatella. But this cozy spot in Capitol Hill makes a Neapolitan hybrid whose delectable crust vaulted it directly into the city's second-best pie slot. Get there before everyone else discovers it.
Seventh Hill, Washington DC

7th Hill Pizza Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato


12. Home Slice, Austin TX. Where can you get an authentic NY slice? This hipster spot in Austin delivers authentically rendered NY slices with a yeoman's crust and toppings that zing. It's better than the highly-regarded NY slice at NY Pizza Suprema, found later in this list for a different reason. Just a fun place to be and food that makes it a destination.
Home Slice, Austin, TX

Home Slice Pizza Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato


11. La Brea Bakery, Disneyland, CA. There are not many retail locations for this huge national bakery, but the one in Disneyland makes a terrific Neapolitan breakfast pizza. I stumbled on this one, simply looking for some interesting food somewhere in the dull city of Anaheim. This pie was amazingly good, and all the more delightful because it was so unexpected, just like the Puck pie in Indy. Perfect crust, top-notch toppings, and nicely balanced. And the coffee was memorable, too.
Spectacular stuff at La Brea Bakery, Anaheim, CA

La Brea Bakery Cafe Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato


10. Primanti Brothers, Ft. Lauderdale, FL. If you know of Primanti Brothers, you think of their Pittsburgh home and the iconic sandwiches, stuffed with meat plus french fries and cole slaw. How good could the pizza be at a franchise location on the beach in Florida? Much like Home Slice in Austin, they've mastered the classic NY slice. This huge slice of pie was crisp, rigid yet chewy, and sporting that lovely orange pepperoni grease. Just a delightful surprise in a town where you don't expect to find great pizza.
Beautiful char under the hood at Primanti Brothers in Ft. Lauderdale, FL

Primanti Brothers Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato


9. Lorenzo's Pizza, Philadelphia PA. Lorenzo's pizza is legendary in its Italian Market location on 9th Street in South Philly. Much beloved by late night revelers as a pit stop for a slice to soak up excess alcohol, its reputation made me skeptical of how good the pizza might be.

 But this stuff is the real deal, and it's yet another fabulous and authentic NY slice on this list. The huge slice is only $2, and it was crisp yet chewy, with a wonderful sweet sauce and a serious char to the undercarriage. A great slice at a great price.
Lorenzo's, South Philadelphia

Lorenzo's Pizza Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato


8. North of Brooklyn, Toronto, Canada. We're only at number 8, yet this huge slice from an 18" pie was nearly perfect pizza. The best NY slice I've had in or out of New York City. The crust had great flavor of its own and that ideal mix of crispness and al dente chewiness. It had the upgrade of fresh mozz, one of the tastiest red sauces we've found, and high-end toppings like the Calabrian n'duja sausage.
North of Brooklyn, Toronto, Canada

 Later, I discovered that North of Brooklyn is a partnership that includes Williamsburg's Frank Pinello, famous for Best Pizza in Brooklyn. The earnest young men in this hipster spot are cranking out some of the best pie anywhere. 
North of Brooklyn, Toronto, Canada

North Of Brooklyn Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato


7. Capofitto, Philadelphia, PA. I typically get more enthused over a classic thin crust American pie than the dozens of Neapolitan pizza joints popping up, but I was excited to visit Capofitto due to the nice reception it got from Philly's legendary food critic Craig Laban. I've read that "real Italians" expect the center of a Neapolitan to be wet, and that they eat pizza with a knife and fork. In general, I reject the notion that any part of a pizza should be wet (and hence soggy), but here was the first time it all made sense. 
Capofitto, Old City, Philadelphia PA

Every bite of this pie revealed the skills of the pizzaiolo and the quality of the ingredients, such as the n'duja sausage. It's the only Neapolitan that rivals the life-changing pies at Scuola Vecchia in Delray Beach, FL. In its Old City location, Capofitto is not capturing the attention of hipster joints like Beddia and Pizza Brain, but this is world-class pie, and you don't have to stand in line to get some.
Under the hood at Capofitto

Capofitto Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato


6. NY Pizza Suprema, Manhattan. Steps outside of Penn Station, this slice joint was jammin' on a weekday when I arrived at lunchtime. Their NY slice was very good, but not as good as the ones mentioned above in this list. The home run shot here is the thick-crusted "upside-down" Sicilian square. 
Lunchtime lines at NY Pizza Suprema, Manhattan

An ideally browned chewy and airy thick crust was crispy on the bottom and had a layer of conventional mozzarella acting as a moisture barrier to the sea of brilliant red sauce riding on top. And that sauce is spectacular. This slice yielded up a dizzying delight of textures and flavors. Nothing pretentious going on here - just great skill and a 50-year tradition of slinging out hundreds of slices for hungry New Yorkers.
NY Pizza Suprema, Manhattan

NY Pizza Suprema Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato


5. Pete's Pizza, Kate & Al's (tie) Columbus, NJ. as much as I value the terrific new pie sellers opening up during the ongoing Pizza Renaissance, I have a soft spot for the old-school places who might have served my parents or grandparents the same stuff I'm eating today. These two NJ pizzerias had their beginnings in the 1950s and 1960s, and they currently anchor opposite ends of the wonderfully tacky Columbus Farmers Market. This throwback farm market, flea market, and auction is much like the Roots County Market in Lancaster County, home to the incomparable Norma's Pizza.
Kate and Al's Pizza, Columbus NJ

They both make a sauce-heavy square pie that is not too different in spirit from the slices at NY Pizza Suprema. These are vintage-style pies, simple in ingredients and execution, but delightful for how that 50 years of experience leads to such good results. Saucy, sloppy, and just a joy to work your way through one of these slices. The crust is a little better at Pete's, the sauce is a little better at Kate & Al's - but why quibble? Have a slice at each place.
Pete's Pizza, Columbus NJ

Kate & Al's Pizza Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato


Pete's Pizza Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato


4. Via 313, Austin, TX. Detroit style pizza has long been on my radar, and I finally got some a year ago at Norma's Pizza. Norma's genius with this pie made me hungry for more, and a trip to Austin gave me a chance to visit the highly-acclaimed Via 313. While Via 313 still sells pies from its two food truck locations, we visited the newer full-service restaurant. 
Detroit-style at Via 313, Austin TX

We sampled both the thin-crust bar pie and the thick-crust Detroit style. And both are spectacular. Either one is good enough to put Via 313 on your radar. The Detroit pie is astonishing - it's right there with Norma's Pizza as the best pan-baked pie anywhere. The crust is the star, and caramelized cheese on the edges simply puts it over the top. 
Detroit slice at Via 313, Austin TX

Meanwhile, the bar pie was thin, crisp, and perfectly balanced with genuine chunks of Italian sausage riding on top. It reminded us of the stellar bar pie at Lee's Tavern in Staten Island. It's a grand accomplishment to make world class pie in any genre, and Via 313 is succeeding in two styles.  

Bar pie at Via 313, Austin TX

Via 313 Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato


3. Louisa's Pizza and Pasta, Crestwood, IL. I've long been skeptical of Chicago style deep dish pie, but this year changed all that. Crestwood may be 10 miles south of Chicago, but the veteran pizzaiolo at Louisa's make a deep dish pie that sports a classic buttery crisp crust and a brilliant red sauce. This was the year of scrumptious sauces, including the square slices at Kate & Al's and NY Pizza Suprema. 
A small deep-dish pie from Louisa's, Crestwood IL

All the ingredients here were in perfect balance, and it helped me end my internal debate of NY vs Chicago pizza. There are so many great kinds of pizza, and usually something very special for the best-executed pies within any genre. Eat them all and vive la différence!
Cross section of Louisa's deep dish pie, Crestwood IL

Louisa's Pizza & Pasta Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato


2. Binge House Pizza, Downingtown, PA. What happens when a pizza blogger turns pizza maker? Adam Kuban is getting great acclaim for his bar pies at Margot's Pizza, a pop-up in Brooklyn (I really need to get there and have some). You may know James Oley as Keystone Pizza Critic, the blog where he chronicles his Pennsylvania pizza experiences. 
Hybrid pie by James Oley, Binge House Pizza

James hails from Northeastern PA (NEPA) and is steeped in the square pan-baked "Old Forge" style pizza of that region. He's looking to move ahead with his pizza passion, and is testing consumer responses to some of the hybrid pies he's crafting. I'm one of the lucky folks to have taken home one of these gems that he's baking in his home oven, and that spectacular pie just floored me. 
James did a lot of research to get the right pans for his hybrid pies

It's a NEPA-Detroit hybrid, and it sports that insanely addictive edge of caramelized cheese on every square slice. It's a medium-thick crust, but dense, crisp, chewy, and perfectly al dente. Unlike a lot of Old Forge pies, this one sported ideal top browning of the cheese. This is some pie with real gravitas, and all the ingredients were beautifully balanced. 
Underside of a Binge House pizza

On top of all that, James is a genuinely nice guy with a big heart and a house full of rescued dogs. James has all the skill to become a successful pizzaiolo, and I'm going to be proud to say "I knew him when" he was just getting started. Read the full review; James is looking for potential business partners. Check out the Facebook page for Binge House Pizza.
Beautiful to look at, and even better to eat

1. Picco, Boston, MA. How can you top the fantastic hybrid pie from Binge House? Well, it was a squeaker, but the pizza at Picco is - truly - flawless. I can find room for improvement in even my all time favorite pizzas, like Robbinsville's (Trenton, NJ) DeLorenzo's Tomato Pies and Brooklyn's DiFara. The warts on those pies are OK, because the core is so ideal. 
Margherita slice at Picco, Boston MA
Pepperoni slice at Picco, Boston MA

I really would love to eat Picco and DiFara and DeLorenzo slices side by side, because Picco is dangerously close to being my new and all-time favorite pizza. I've eaten and loved some of Bostons' better known iconic pizzas, such as the original Regina's and Santarpio's. I didn't contemplate that Picco was in the same league, but this hybrid pie (with a crust that was like Totonno's crossed with a Neapolitan) was flawless. 
Serious char on the undercarriage, Picco, Boston MA
Pepperoni pie, Picco, Boston MA

The crust was as good as bread can get, bursting with colors, textures, and flavors. But that was just the beginning, serving as an ideal base for the intensely rich dark tomato sauce, milky white fresh mozzarella, and top-grade small diameter pepperoni. Perfect balance of sensory delights in every bite. I wouldn't change a single thing about this pizza. 
Picco, Boston MA

One would not suspect that this swanky modern setting would be the source of pizza with such a genuine old-school heart, but it all comes together. Good service and great appetizers rounded out a wonderful meal here. Picco belongs on any list of the greatest pizzas in America.
All smiles at Picco, Boston MA

Picco Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Four and a half years into this blog, and 2015 is easily the best crop of new discoveries. That is testament to just how robust is this current Pizza Renaissance. We're living in a Golden Crust Age.
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115 Pizzas Worth the Calories

January 6, 2016, 1:15 pm
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About a year ago, we published the list of 100 Pizzas Worth the Calories. During 2015, we discovered several more that helped grow the list to 115, including three places (Picco, Via 313, and North of Brooklyn) that landed in the Top Ten.
The brilliant hybrid pie at Picco in Boston MA
Detroit style at Via 313, Austin TX

Although these pies are ranked, you can expect a world-class pizza experience in almost any of the pies from number one through the mid-thirties on this list.
A NY Slice at North of Brooklyn in Toronto, Canada
Chicago Deep Dish at Louisa's, Crestwood IL

But as always, any pizza here is easily worth the calories, and the top two-thirds also quality as destination pizza: worth the calories and the trip to get there.
American pie at Pizza Brain in Philadelphia
New Haven style at Frank Pepe's

Pizza Styles

  • Chicago Deep Dish made our list for the first time, Louisa's Pizza and Pasta (Crestwood, IL) landed at number 29. 
  • Detroit style pie is represented by Norma's Pizza (#10) and Via 313 (#7).
  • Trenton Tomato Pie remains a personal favorite, and five Trenton pies are on the list.
  • The NY Slice is represented here, too often to enumerate them all.
  • Sicilian style and related pan-baked pizzas are here too, such as the square slice at NY Pizza Suprema (#43).
  • Neapolitan pies appear throughout; the best one remains Scuola Vecchia at #6.
  • Bar Pies (and related Midwestern cracker crust pies) are here in abundance, from Lee's Tavern in Staten Island (#23) to Vito & Nick's (#33) in Chicago.
  • American Pie - my term for a pie featuring a thin rigid crust with thoughtfully applied toppings - is best represented by places like Pizza Brain (#8) and Denino's (#11).
  • New Haven style - a cousin to the Trenton Tomato Pie - is holding the #4 and #5 spots here, from the legendary pie joints Frank Pepe's and Sally's.
  • Hybrid styles are often some wonderful mix of American/NY and Neapolitan. Two of my favorites - LaPorta (#14) and Picco (#3) - are making crazy good hybrid pies.
  • St. Louis style? Still missing. I'm eager to try one, but haven't yet.
And now, THE LIST:

1) DeLorenzo’s Tomato Pies, Robbinsville NJ
2) DiFara Pizza, Brooklyn NY
3) Picco, Boston MA
4) Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana, New Haven CT
5) Sally's Apizza, New Haven CT
6) Scuola Vecchia, Delray Beach FL
7) Via 313, Austin TX
8) Pizza Brain, Philadelphia PA
9) North of Brooklyn, Toronto Canada
10) Norma's Pizza, Manheim PA
11) Denino’s, Staten Island NY
12) Papa's Tomato Pies, Robbinsville NJ
13) Gennaro's Tomato Pies, Philadelphia PA
14) La Porta Ristorante, Edgemont, PA
15) Pizzeria Vetri, Philadelphia PA
16) Pizzeria Delfina, San Francisco CA
17) Joe and Pat's, Staten Island NY
18) Regina Pizza, Boston MA
19) Patsy’s, East Harlem, Manhattan, NY
20) Capofitto, Philadelphia PA
21) Santarpio’s, Boston MA
22) Tacconelli’s, Philadelphia PA
23) Lee’s Tavern, Staten Island NY
24) Apizza Scholls, Portland OR
25) Motorino, Manhattan NY
26) Forcella, Williamsburg, Brooklyn NY
27) Pizzeria Bianco, Phoenix AZ
28) 2 Amys, Washington DC
29) Louisa’s Pizza and Pasta, Crestwood IL
30) Grimaldi’s, Williamsburg, Brooklyn NY
31) Totonno's, Coney Island, Brooklyn NY
32) Rubino's Pizza, Columbus OH
33) Vito and Nick's Pizza, Chicago IL
34) Pane Bianco, Phoenix AZ
35) Seventh Hill Pizza, Washington DC
36) Zuppardi's Apizza, West Haven CT
37) Nick's New Haven Style Pizzeria, Boca Raton FL
38) Nomad Pizza, Hopewell NJ and Philadelphia PA
39) Modern Apizza, New Haven CT
40) Lombardi's, Manhattan NY
41) Arturo’s, Greenwich Village, NY
42) Anthony's Coal Fired Pizza, PA and FL
43) NY Pizza Suprema, Manhattan, NY
44) John’s, Greenwich Village, NY
45) Osteria, Philadelphia PA
46) La Villa, Morrisville PA
47) Cambridge 1, Cambridge MA
48) Zavino, Philadelphia
49) Roberta's, Brooklyn NY
50) Domenica, New Orleans LA
51) Don Antonio by Starita, Manhattan, NY
52) Vecchia Pizzeria Napoletana, Phoenixville PA
53) Pieous, Austin TX
54) Lucca Grill, Bloomington IL
55) Artichoke Basille’s, Greenwich Village, NY
56) Home Slice, Austin TX
57) Zero Otto Nove, Bronx NY
58) Patsy’s, New Rochelle, NY
59) Stella, Philadelphia PA
60) Ramagi Brick Oven Pizza, Brooklyn
61) Kate & Al’s, Columbus NJ
62) Lorenzo’s, Philadelphia, PA
63) It’s Nutts, Titusville NJ
64) Dough Pizzeria Napoletana, San Antonio, TX
65) Rapidough, West Chester PA
66) Bufad, Philadelphia
67) Comet Ping Pong, Washington DC
68) Tucci’s Fire N Coal Pizza, Boca Raton, FL
69) La Sicilia, Belleville, NJ
70) Pete’s Pizza, Columbus NJ
71) Primanti Brothers, Fort Lauderdale, FL
72) L&B Spumoni Gardens, Brooklyn NY
73) New Park Pizza, Queens NY
74) SLiCE, Philadelphia
75) Tosca Café, (Throgs Neck), Bronx NY
76) Grimaldi’s (national chain)
77) Sizzle Pie, Portland OR
78) Conte’s, Princeton NJ
79) Spatola's Pizza, Paoli PA
80) Pizzeria Pesto, Philadelphia
81) DOCG, Las Vegas NV
82) Tommy's Pizza, (Throgs Neck), Bronx NY
83) Russo's Coal-Fired Italian Kitchen, Houston TX
84) Tony Baloney's, Hoboken NJ
85) Wolfgang Puck Express (national chain)
86) Massimo’s, Hamilton NJ
87) Bertucci’s Jersey City NJ
88) Wiseguy NY Pizza, Washington DC
89) La Brea Bakery, Anaheim CA
90) Barbuzzo, Philadelphia PA
91) Brick Oven Pizza 33, Manhattan NY
92) MOD Pizza (national chain)
93) Rosati's, Bloomington IL
94) Jules Thin Crust, CA and PA
95) Luigi’s Coal Oven Pizza, Fort Lauderdale FL
96) Rustica, Philadelphia PA
97) DeLorenzo’s Pizza, Hamilton NJ
98) Franzone's, Bridgeport PA
99) Corropolese Bakery Tomato Pie, Norristown PA
100) Pica's, Upper Darby, PA
101) Napolese, Indianapolis IN
102) Tony Roni's, Willow Grove PA
103) Clank's Bar, Marcus Hook, PA
104) Sauce, Phoenix AZ
105) Marra’s, Philadelphia PA
106) Pizza by Elizabeth, Greenville, DE
107) Iron Hill Brewery, West Chester PA
108) Grotto Pizza, Dewey Beach, DE
109) Uncle Oogie’s, Philadelphia
110) Lenny’s, Bensonhurst, Brooklyn NY
111) Stella Rossa, Downingtown PA
112) Monical's Pizza, Bloomington IL
113) Bazbeaux, Indianapolis, IN
114) Felicia's Pizza Kitchen, Ardmore PA
115) California Pizza Kitchen (national chain)


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Review: Holy Tomato Pies, Blackwood NJ

January 11, 2016, 6:52 am
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What is a tomato pie? I grew up in Southern New Jersey, and my family used the term as a synonym for pizza. But it has a very specific meaning in Trenton, NJ, where tomato pie is similar to pizza, but the cheese goes on first and then crushed tomato is applied in uneven dollops. 
Click on any image to enlarge
Nearby in Philadelphia, tomato pie is a thick-crusted pizza dough baked in a rectangular pan, topped with a thick layer of tomato sauce and dusted with Parmesan cheese.

You don't find a Trenton tomato pie in too many spots away from Trenton and its adjacent suburbs, but some good friends alerted me to Holy Tomato Pies in Blackwood, NJ. Blackwood is 43 miles from DeLorenzo's, the world's best Trenton tomato pie.
High school classmates reunite for pizza and BYOB

Holy Tomato Pies looks small inside, but there are three separate dining rooms, each sporting its own fun and funky decor. I was part of a group of seven who visited on a Tuesday night in January. We didn't anticipate a crowded venue, but there is a Tuesday special that features one pizza, two salads, and two drinks for just $20, and the place was buzzing with activity.



We ordered three pies, and we got big family-style orders of their two specialty salads, the House salad and the Caesar. My own meal started with great promise when my raspberry lemonade arrived with fresh lime, blueberries, and raspberries floating in the ball jar serving as a glass.



One of the funky back dining rooms

The salads -  $5 or $6 per person when not included in a special - were superb. Often, the side salad at a pizza joint is a forgettable toss-off, but you'd be remiss to pass up one of these. The House salad was adorned with toasted sesame seeds, cherry tomatoes, pepperoncini, and authentic green olives. The salad recipe was passed down by the owner's mother, and it originated at a restaurant near Dallas, TX. The Caesar sported brown sugar roasted pecans and shaved Parmesan cheese with a flavorful dressing. Seven big guys ate heartily and we still had plenty of salad to take home.
House salad

(Interesting side note - one member of our group sells Sysco supplies to restaurants and pizzerias. I've always assumed that most mom and pop pizza is so forgettable because they buy cheap bulk ingredients from Sysco. That may be true, but I learned that Sysco also carries some high-end stuff, like Grande mozzarella and authentic San Marzano tomatoes. So - if you see a Sysco truck parked behind your favorite pizzeria, it's not necessarily a bad sign.)
Caesar salad

You can customize your pie in just about any way, but the menu features four basic types. The "Original Tomato Pie" features hand crushed tomatoes, fresh garlic, and a light sprinkle of mozzarella cheese; there is a White Pie, and Red Pie with fresh garlic and no cheese, and the "Chicago Pie" which is the White Pie topped with dollops of  tomatoes, fresh garlic, oregano and olive/canola oil blend.
Tomato pie with sausage

We selected a tomato pie topped with sausage, a Chicago pie topped with pepperoni, and a Buffalo chicken specialty pie. I would never choose Buffalo chicken pizza for myself, for a host of pizza purist reasons (Kenji Alt-Lopez tells you why), but most of the group was in favor. More later on that pie!
Chicago pie with pepperoni

The tomato pie and Chicago pie arrived first. I noted that these very large pies (18" or 20" diameter) were given the "Trenton cut" that yields some triangular and some rectangular slices. One slice down the middle, and then 4 or 5 perpendicular cuts. When I asked the owner, she told us she's never been to Trenton!
Buffalo chicken pizza

The crust is made from low-gluten flour with some added honey. It's designed so that it doesn't rise, and indeed this was a thin, flat, and crisp crust. It glistened on top and below with the shimmer of a coat of olive oil, and that allowed for a beautiful golden color and kept it from slipping into "cracker crust" territory. The crust was pliant despite its crisp edges, and the bigger slices were even a bit floppy due to the weight of the toppings. The cornicione remained thin, but there were delightfully large crust bubbles at the perimeter.
Two Steves, digging the pie

On all three pies, the crust was delicious. Not identical to a Trenton tomato pie, but it would please any Trenton native. It had a wonderful flavor of its own, and a near-perfect texture. On appearances, the Chicago pie was not very different from the tomato pie. Each sported a generous amount of tasty fresh crushed tomatoes; the Chicago pie had perhaps a bit more cheese.
Chicago slice

Both of these pies were well balanced in the ratio of sauce and cheese and toppings to the thin crust. Like any Trenton tomato pie and its bar pie and Midwestern pie cousins, you can eat a lot of this stuff. The tomato pie was the winner between the two. The sausage was authentically Italian, applied raw in uneven chunks so that it cooks on the pie. Perfect. 
Buffalo chicken slice

Tomato pie slice

The pepperoni on the Chicago pie was thick-cut and tasted to me more like smoked kielbasa. It was a tasty upgrade over standard pizza shop pepperoni, but I'd like to see an option for the narrow-gauge "spicy cup" pepperoni used at Binge House Pizza.
Beautifully crisp underside

The Buffalo chicken pie arrived last, and we eagerly tore into it. I can say that this was easily the best of this variety that I've tried. The white-meat chicken was tender and moist, and the Buffalo sauce had a wonderful vinegar tang to it, not a blazing heat. For the first time ever, I had a pizza where the chicken topping was an enhancement. This is not the typical Buffalo chicken carelessly tossed on top of an inferior cheap pizza to fill the bellies of drunk college kids - this is a chicken topping prepared by someone with authentic kitchen skills.
Another look under the hood

These were three wonderful pizzas, starting with that ideal crispy thin base and a judicious amount of sauce and cheese. I'm curious to know if the fresh mozzarella option (available on the Margherita specialty pie) would make these even better. The only other area for improvement is that I think the garlic came out a jar - but that did not slow our rate of devouring these pies.
Big fat cookie with ice cream

Holy Tomato Pies also has a menu of house-made desserts. I never have room for dessert after pizza, but my 6 companions did. Some ordered the huge home-made cookies served with ice cream (they looked as big as hamburger patties), and others chose the "Sopapilla Cheesecake." 

I did have a taste of that cheesecake, and it was staggeringly good. So good it could make you forget that you just ate wonderful pizza. I was floored by this dessert; it's as good a confection as I can remember from any venue. I'd go there just for the cheesecake. Astonishing stuff.
Sopapilla cheesecake

Serving 3 huge pies to a tightly packed table is a bit of an art. The owners at Holy Tomato Pie have some clever tricks, like a decked-out former paint can now serving as a pizza stand so that the height of the pies can be staggered. The staff was smart enough to bring 2 pies at first, and then third was delivered to our table fresh and hot only when we had eaten enough to remove one of the first trays. Small detail, but it's a sign of how the owners truly understand customer service.
Owner Terri Berkholder (center) with two of her daughters

We had a short chat with owner Terri Berkholder, who bought the restaurant with her daughters in 2010. Today, it's staffed by Terri and daughters April, Summer, and Jessica. There is also a "Holy Tomato Too" in nearby Mullica Hill. There's a lot of magic happening when talented cooks are serving signature dishes with passion. 

We were unanimous in our love of the pizza, the salads, the desserts, the venue, the service, the ambiance. This is a grand-slam home run pizza experience. Blackwood is only about 20 minutes from Philadelphia, and this destination pie is surely worth the trip. 





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Review: Brooklyn Bred Pizza Crust

January 18, 2016, 5:17 am
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On a recent trip to BJ's Wholesale Club (a membership-based warehouse store like Costco), I purchased a twin-pack of "Brooklyn Bred" rectangular pizza crusts for $3.99. These are the product of Damascus Bakeries, headquartered near Williamsburg in Brooklyn. These pizza crusts were baked at their Newark, NJ facility.

Damascus Bakery Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

If you want to see a great example of the American melting pot, consider a Syrian immigrant baking pita bread and other Middle Eastern specialties in Brooklyn, and his grandchildren expanding the business to other baked goods including pizza crusts made with traditional Italian "00" flour. 
Click on image to enlarge!


Damascus Bakeries, opened in 1930 in the heart of a Middle Eastern community in downtown Brooklyn, was named after the founder's childhood home in Syria. Now the bread is sold across America in Costco, BJ's, and Starbucks.

I used the crust to construct a fairly conventional pizza. I brushed both sides with olive oil (per the instructions) before topping with fresh mozzarella, grana padano, soppressata, tomato sauce, and a few hot peppers and cherry tomatoes.

The package instructions recommended baking directly on the oven rack for a crisp bottom, or on a pan for a chewy crust. I baked this pie at 475 degrees on my Baking Steel, and finished it with 90 seconds under the broiler.


The crust is indeed tasty (it looked good right out of the package) with a nice texture and good hole structure. Even though I prefer a crisp and rigid crust 99% of the time, I this one became a little more dry and brittle than ideal.

On the second attempt, I used similar toppings, but baked the pie for about 8 minutes at 425 degrees. This pie got a nice crispy bottom but retained a nice chewiness in the center without being either dry or greasy. The lower temp made a huge difference.

Overall, good stuff that lets you easily craft a homemade pie that is, at minimum, better than any frozen pie and way better than the stuff from chains likeDomino's or Pizza Hut. It is not as good as using a pizza dough from Trader Joe'sor ALDI, but it sure is easier. This is B+ stuff for pizza, and I'd buy it again.
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Review: Jerk Oceano (Pizzeria Oceano), Lantana FL

January 22, 2016, 11:11 am
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Until July of 2015, the best pizzeria you never heard of was operating from a beach-style shack in overlooked Lantana, Florida. There in the shadow of glitzy neighbor towns like Palm Beach and Delray Beach, Dak Kerprich was churning out thin crust pies from a wood-fired oven to in-the-know locals. 
"The Basic" at Oceano. Click any image to enlarge

After flying under the radar for six years operating as Pizzeria Oceano, Dak changed his restaurant to a Caribbean-theme with an emphasis on fresh seafood, and re-dubbed it Jerk Oceano. The pizzas moved to a new pie take-out spot, Swell Pizza in nearby Delray. (Swell is no longer open, as of January 2016).
Broccoli leaves and kielbasa as toppings

Before and after the change, Oceano is a quirky spot with no phone, no reservations, no sign or any external indication of its identity, and only a few hours advance notice of the day's menu on their website at http://www.jerkoceano.com/.
No external signs to identify Oceano

Even though the emphasis has changed, pizza still makes an appearance on the menu some nights (at least since Swell closed). We hit the jackpot on a Thursday, and arrived ahead of the 6pm opening time (on weekends, patrons can wait an hour or more for one of the dozen or so tables). 
The small interior and Dak in the kitchen; wood stove in rear

It was a pleasant winter night in South Florida, well-suited to al fresco dining (very limited indoor seating, which seems to go to the regulars). The indoor and restroom have some fun and funky decor.
Menu options on the day of our visit

For our party of three, we choose both pizzas from the menu, a roasted fennel and cornbread appetizer, and an apple-arugula salad. There is also a short but very well-assembled beer and wine list. We chose the $38 Hendry Ranch Zinfandel, which was superb. Notably, the wine mark-up was much less than in most restaurants. 
Cornbread and roasted fennel, with olives and tomatillo

The cornbread dish came first. Its modest size made for three small servings to share, but it was a delightful mix of textures and flavors, all finished in that wood-fired brick oven. I've never been able to coax flavors out of tomatillos like the ones in this dish. A perfect start.

The kitchen kept up the high standards with our apple-arugula salad. The orange mint leaves dominated a little too much, but the dish was still eagerly consumed.
The basic Basic

Even though we had ordered the night's "Basic" pizza that was to include shallots, broccoli leaves, olives, and datil chili oil, Dak's brother Jay explained that first-time visitors get the very basic Basic, which is made with organic California tomato sauce and house-made mozzarella.

The pie was about 16" in diameter, and was cut into six generous slices. It was topped with several large fresh basil leaves, applied post bake. The crust was very thin, crisp, and nearly rigid enough to support the toppings when held in one hand.
Thin, crisp, leopard spotted

Spoiler alert: everything about this pizza - and this entire meal, start to finish - was first rate. But let's focus on the pizza crust, the key element to any pizza. This one is easy to describe but hard to categorize.
Close up of the crumb

In one sense, it was a little bit like a Neapolitan in its flavor, but it was not puffy or thick anywhere. It shared a little in common with a bar pie, but it was lighter and airy. It also reminded me of the minimalist crust at Philly's legendary Tacconelli's.

Like all the best crusts, it had a great flavor all on its own. Dak uses organic domestic wheat, and the dough ferments for 48 hours. Despite its very thin composition, it was ideally balanced to the piquant sauce and modest amounts of cheese. Together with the fresh basil and some olive oil as finishing touches, this was an ideal pie. We devoured it rapidly.
Pizza with broccoli leaves and kielbasa

The second pie came as described on the menu. No red sauce, a bit more cheese, lots of broccoli leaves, and diced kielbasa. It sported the same magnificent crust, and the ingredients again were perfectly balanced. 

I don't typically enjoy broccoli or any wet and heavy vegetables on a pizza, because they disrupt the balance without adding helpful flavors. However, we all relished this creative use of broccoli leaves, which were the right texture and flavor. 
Fairly rigid support for such a thin and airy crust

This is second time I've had kielbasa on a pizza, and it's a winner. Because smoked kielbasa is such a powerful flavor, the smaller diced bits were a better choice than larger or thick slices of meat.
That's Jay, in the baseball cap

Overall, we had a slight preference for the Basic pizza, due to the delicious red sauce. But these were both wonderful pies that left us wondering, can Jerk Oceano challenge Scuola Vecchia as the best pizza in South Florida?
Weirdly funky bathroom decor

We concluded our meal with the chocolate cake, garnished with toasted pine nuts. It was the perfect finish, and its lightness and moderated sweetness maintained the high level that began with our first appetizer. It's very rare that a kitchen executes at such a high level for all courses of a meal. Easily one of the best meals I've had anywhere, any time.
Pizza Geeks at work

Dak's brother Jay is the frontman who seats the customers and takes orders. He explained to us how almost all the dishes are prepared in the brick wood oven, and he encouraged us to come back on a night when the menu includes fresh seafood. "If we cook it that night, it was caught the same morning."
Nearby on the waterfront, a Pelican wishes for pizza

I know this - if I was a local, I'd back back on a frequent basis. I'd gladly endure the quirks of seating, menu, and phoneless approach in order to enjoy the impeccable fare. I'd even eat there on nights with no pizza.


Pizzeria Oceano Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato
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Review: Grande Pizza Co., Boca Raton FL

January 24, 2016, 5:53 am
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What is Detroit style pizza? It's a rectangular pie, baked in a pan, with a thick but usually airy crust. It has a lot in common with a Sicilian style pizza and the Old Forge pies in Northeastern Pennsylvania.
Click on any image for full size resolution

Detroit pizza has two features that really set it apart, however. First, the cheese is deliberately spread all the way to the edges, so that it seeps down on the side of the crust for a dark caramelized edge. Second, the red sauce is often ladled on top after the pie has baked.
Oozing cheese at Grande Pizza Co

Here at Pizza Quixote, we've never been to the legendary Buddy's in Detroit, where the style was invented. But we've had spectacular Detroit style pie from:

  • Norma's Pizza in Manheim PA (Norma recently won the Caputo Cup for best NY style pizza, too)
  • Via 313 in Austin TX (where you can also get authentic thin-crust bar pie)
  • Binge House Pizza in Downingtown PA (a hybrid of Detroit and Old Forge styles)

Detroit pie at Via 313

All of those pies are spectacular, so we were keen to try the Detroit style pizza at Grande Pizza Co in Boca Raton once we learned it was a menu option. Grande has four South Florida locations.

In Boca, Grande looks like just another unremarkable pizza joint in a strip mall. When you enter the modern space, there is a long counter that seems tailored for take-out orders, then a pretty large dining area that is anchored by a U-shaped bar. Certainly a bit more upscale than the typical mom and pop pizza shop.

The menu looked pretty much like the standard "something for everybody" list of subs, gyros, wings, other fried stuff, and pizzas. In fact, the Detroit pie is buried under the "New York Style" pizza options. 
The bar at Grande Pizza Co in Boca

If you check their online menu, there is no mention of Detroit style; instead, a "crusty cheese" pie is listed. Bottom line - you're not getting the Detroit pizza unless you go there seeking it out; we did.
Brilliant caramelized edge

We began with a house salad, which offered the standard ingredients but was crisp and fresh, and decorated with some nice spicy pepperoncini.

Our group (3 people) chose pepperoni as a topping for our $15 Detroit pie. Our pizza arrived cut into eight generous rectangular slices; four of those were corners with caramelized cheese on two edges.

At Via 313, my only disappointment was that the pepperoni was buried under the cheese, following the Detroit tradition. Here, happily, the pepperoni rode on top. The large rounds were generously applied, but they were thin slices of standard grade stuff. They enhanced the pie, but only by a little.
A premium corner slice

Most Americans love an over-cheesed pie, and this one was loaded. It was premium grade Grande mozzarella (no relation), and it was applied in a thick layer that oozed off the edges of every slice. This made for mandatory knife and fork eating.

I'm not certain if the sauce was applied post-bake or not, but it did ride atop the cheese. The sauce had a nice smooth texture and an excellent, slightly sweet flavor. We all agreed that we'd like more of this sauce and less of the cheese.
Beautifully golden brown underneath

The crust was superb. It was a little thinner than a Sicilian pie, mostly light and airy in its interior, and it sported a perfect crunchy brown bottom without being excessively oily. It seemed a bit compressed under the weight of all that cheese, but somehow this pie was exceptionally well balanced in its textures.

Each bite delivered a nice mix of crunch and chew from that fine crust, and a classic salty pizza flavor from the Grande cheese and that red sauce. Despite the flaws of too much cheese and too little sauce and standard grade pepperoni, this was a delicious and delightful pizza.

Our party of three adults shared the large salad and then polished off this pizza with little difficulty; we left feeling satiated but not stuffed. I think that is a reflection on the airiness of the crust.
The brilliant hybrid pie at Binge House

Our service was polite and efficient; I'd love to go back at dinner time and enjoy this pizza with a glass of red wine. I think that if the pizzaiolo held back on the cheese and doubled the red sauce, this pie would be as good as the legendary square slices at L&B Spumoni Gardens in Brooklyn.

It's not quite at the magical level of Norma's, Binge House, or Via 313, but it's excellent pizza. South Florida can boast of a lot of fine pizza joints. Grande Pizza Co joins Scuola Vecchia, Jerk Oceano, Tucci's, Nick's New Haven, and Anthony's Coal-Fired Pizza as yet one more destination pie in the region.


Grande Pizza Co. Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato
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Review: Collegeville Italian Bakery Pizzeria Napoletana, Collegeville PA

February 10, 2016, 5:30 pm
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Let's make it official: 2016 is the year when the world (beyond Michigan and pizza insiders) discovers Detroit style pie.  At first glance, a Detroit pie looks like a Sicilian style rectangle pie with its thick crust. The Detroit pie is different, though, in a few key ways.
Collegeville slices. Click any image to enlarge

First, the cheese is applied all the way to the edges and beyond, so that it drips down the sides of the pie and caramelizes along the edge of the specialized metal baking pan. Second, a Detroit pizza typically relies less on mozzarella cheese and more on brick cheese or a mix of brick, cheddar, and/or mozzarella. Finally, the sauce is not cooked on the pizza, but ladled on top in two rows after the pie has baked.
Rigid crust on the Collegeville NY slice

I still haven't been to Detroit for the original at Buddy's Pizza, but I had stellar Detroit style pie during my visits to Norma's Pizza in Manheim, PA. Norma won the 2016 Caputo Cup for her astonishing New York style pizza, but her Detroit pie is just as good. In another spot far-removed from Detroit, Via 313 in Austin TX is serving up Detroit style pizza in addition to very authentic thin bar pies.
Detroit slice at Norma's Pizza in Manheim PA
Detroit pie at Via 313 in Austin TX
Detroit slice at Grande Pizza, Boca Raton FL

Most recently, I traveled to Boca Raton, FL for the very good Detroit pie at Grande Pizza. After lamenting that I couldn't get a Detroit pie near my Pennsylvania home, I was alerted to Collegeville Italian Bakery Pizzeria Napoletana. It's only about 35 minutes from my home, so I made a point to get there on a Saturday afternoon.

In the Philly suburbs (Collegeville, home of Ursinus College, is about 45 minutes from Philly), there is a tradition of bakery-made "tomato pies" which are like a Sicilian pizza without cheese, served at room temperature. I enjoy a Philly tomato pie, but not as much as the folks who grew up eating them. I came to Collegeville Italian Bakery Pizzeria Napoletana fearful of finding a white-bread bakery style tomato pie dressed up and pretending to be a Detroit style pizza.
From https://www.facebook.com/CollegevilleItalianBakery

From https://www.facebook.com/CollegevilleItalianBakery

What I found was that "bakery" is a misnomer. There is seating for over 100 here, and there is an extensive menu featuring freshly baked bread, rolls, cookies in addition to restaurant items like deli salads, wings, soup, burgers, cold and hot sandwiches, and an improbably large variety of pizzas: breakfast pizza, Roman style al taglio pies, NY style, Detroit style, and wood-fired Neapolitan 12" personal pies.
Breakfast pizza. From https://www.facebook.com/CollegevilleItalianBakery

Because I had a large crew of five to feed, I ordered two pies - one NY style with pepperoni, and one Detroit style topped with sausage. It's unfortunate that I got both pies for takeout, and it was 20-30 minutes before they came to our kitchen table, lukewarm. Not the best way to assess pizza for a first visit, but (spoiler alert) there will be many more visits.
Detroit pizza

The NY pie is advertised as 16" in diameter, but it looked bigger and filled the takeout box. First inspection revealed some lovely "spicy cup" pepperoni sitting atop a sea of lightly cooked cheese. Most notable was the cornicione, which was thin and dark and a tell-tale sign of an old-school approach.
NY Pizza

The entire crust was thin, crisp, rigid yet flexible in texture. Underneath, it was a uniform golden brown with little spotting. Its flavor matched the promise of its look, too. I imagine all the bread products are good here, and that bodes well for all the sandwiches on the menu.
NY slice

The sauce was lively, but applied sparingly and was almost invisible under the cheese. The cheese was tasty enough - conventional mozzarella - but I'd have enjoyed it more if it has acquired some top browning.
Wood-fired dome oven

The crust seemed perfectly cooked even as the cheese and pepperoni could have used a few minutes under a broiler.  The pepperoni was fabulous - all told, this was an excellent NY style pizza, authentic in every way.
Underside of the NY slice

The Detroit pie was the drawing card, though. This pie had an entirely different look, having been baked in a pan. It did have the crusty cheese on the edges, but it was about the same color as the dough. On other Detroit pies I've had, the caramelized cheese took on a much darker hue.
Detroit slice edges

The crust was thick, as expected. It had a nice airy interior, but it was more dense than the Detroit pie at Norma's, for instance, or its Sicilian cousin at NY Pizza Suprema. It had a lovely golden crunch underneath. And, of course, the cheese-crusted edges were a delight as we scrambled for the premium corner squares.
Light and airy

This pie was exceptionally well balanced, with perfect proportions of cheese and sauce on top. The excellent sauce was riding on top and applied generously. 

The sausage also sat atop the pie, and we were glad about that. Some Detroit pies and Chicago deep-dish pizzas are made with the bad habit of burying the meat under the cheese, which denies the sausage or pepperoni the chance to get browned and crisp.
Underside of a corner slice


All told, this terrific bakery and restaurant in an outer Philly suburb is - much like the highly acclaimed Via 313 in Austin - succeeding at crafting two very different kinds of authentic pizza. It's hard enough to get a decent NY slice; Collegeville Bakery nails it and then cooks up a superb Detroit style pie. Destination pizza.


Collegeville Italian Bakery Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato
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